Ever since I saw an exhibition at the Finnish Museum of Photography, over 20 years ago, I have followed news about Thai berry pickers in Finland. The exhibition included work by the Swedish photographer Margareta Klingberg, who portrayed foreign berry pickers doing the work that locals were no longer willing to do themselves. In her photographs, an innocent forest full of berries became a political landscape: the national landscape had new people in it.
Then, one summer before the pandemic, I saw a group of berry pickers at Helsinki-Vantaa Airport. They did not fit the usual airport scenery of busy business travellers, excited children and the fizzy expectation of holidays. They looked tired, shabbily dressed, and out of place, waiting in line for a connecting flight to the north. The difference was impossible not to see.
Since then, the reality of the berry business has become harder to ignore. Reports and investigations have revealed conditions resembling forced labour, including physically demanding, long hours, and workers leaving Finland in debt. There have also been investigations concerning price-fixing cartel.
This year, Finland granted only a small number of permits for berry pickers, in an attempt to prevent abusive arrangements. In July, on my way back from Bangkok, there were a few dozen pickers on the same flight. The berry company had dressed them, quite boldly, in tracksuits with its logo. I truly hope they make good money here. In many parts of Finland, the forests are fuller of berries than they have been for years.
There are two specific conditions behind all this. The first is Everyone’s rights, or Freedom to roam, which allows anyone to use nature freely, including picking wild berries and mushrooms. The second is that income from selling self-picked wild berries and mushrooms is tax-free, as long as the berries are sold unprocessed and the picker is not in an employment relationship.
What makes the exploitation so bitter is that berry companies have built their business on these two privileges: free access to nature and tax-free wild-berry income. They have turned freedoms meant for everyone into an exploitive business.



